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FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS:

1. Which is better...males or females?

2. My babies are biting me. How do I curb this?

3. Is it true that wire cages cause bumblefoot?

4. What does Dumbo and Rex mean?

5. My rat is sneezing, what should I do?

6. I think my rats are fighting. They're leaving sores on each other.

7. My rats have mites. What should I do?

8. Do I need to bathe my rats? What's the best way to do this?

 

Males VS Females?

I get asked this question quite a bit. It's certainly a personal choice. I was going to make a pro/con list, but pro and con are also personal opinion, so here's a list of 'points'. Rats are individuals, so most of the things attributed to one sex or another are 'general rules' and there's always exceptions to any rule.

I would be hard pressed to pick my favorite. I tend to recommend females for young girls that are new to rats and males to young boys just starting out. But it's such a personal choice. I do know that you'll fall in love no matter what sex you end up with :-)

Both are equally attentive and affectionate. Both are equally intelligent and trainable.
Males are bigger. As adults, they tend to be a little more laid back, while females remain smaller and more active in their adult years.
Males tend to urine mark more than females, but females do it also.
The Male anatomy can be disconcerting to younger care givers.
Females tend to be more prone to tumors

Unlike mice, males don't have a bad odor as long as their cages are kept clean. In fact, I think they smell kinda nice :-)


One thing I will say, however, is that it's best to keep one or the other. When you have 2 separate cages with 2 separate sexes you have to divide the playtime and they both get cheated.
Females go into heat about every 4-5 DAYS starting at about 6 weeks of age. They can never play together, even for a minute. And a female in heat can be very ingenious when it comes to finding a way to the males. (and yes, it's true they can manage to mate thru the bars. I don't know how, but it's happened to me). Brother, sister, son and mother make no difference to rats. You probably think it's silly for me to even mention that, but you'd be surprised how many people have stated to me that they thought they wouldn't breed because they were litter mates. It's quite amazing.

One cage, with a pair or trio of rats is the best way to go. You have one cage to clean once a week and your rats have all of your attention. It's a win/win situation. 2 cages to clean and having to worry about equal time out makes the experience dangerously close to something akin to work :-)

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2. My babies are biting me. How can I curb this?

Your babies are testing and tasting. It's quite normal for babies to do this. They're like toddlers or puppies. Everything goes into their mouths. They're actually learning. They'll be familiar with the feel and taste of your finger and you're less likely to get an accidental nip when they're adults, when it would really hurt. As babies, they don't have the jaw strength to really hurt you even if they wanted to. If you have a kiddo that's scared by this behavior, explain to her that he's playing with her like a puppy would and sit with her and show her that he's playing. Let him grab your finger, play with him, shake his head a bit and then tickle him all over. Let her offer a knuckle and do the same so she can see it doesn't hurt. When they put their teeth on you, you don't want to jerk back in fear. You might get an accidental scrape from the teeth and it'll scare and confuse the baby. There's also no need to reprimand the baby. He'll grow out of it on his own. If he does get a little rougher than you like, just make the universal "ACK" noise. You know, the one you make at your husband when you catch him trying to stick his finger in the frosting of the cake you just made for company. This noise seems to work well for animals, children and husbands alike. :-)

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3. Is it true that wire cages cause bumblefoot?

This is an on-going debate among rat fanciers. It's a common notion that walking on wire causes bumblefoot. There is simply no evidence to support this. Bumblefoot is a staph infection. The germs enter thru tiny cuts or abrasions on the feet. Certainly, if a rat is constantly on wire, it's going to hurt his little feet. But if he has a place to get off of the wire occasionally, he'll be fine. Completely solid shelving is easy on the feet, however, walking around or laying in dried urine is absolutely a breeding ground for infection. Tiny cuts or abrasions can happen in lots of different ways. So if you have solid shelves, you will have to be diligent in keeping it clean.

So with all that said, the truth is that it's a personal choice. If you choose wire shelving, make sure they have a solid bottom and places to get off the wire (fabric, hammocks, etc). If you choose to go with solid shelving, make sure you wipe it down daily.
I personally use both. I have a cabinet style cage with solid shelving for the girls and wire cages with wire shelving and solid bottoms for the boys. I have kept rats for 4 years and I've never had a case of bumble foot. Bumble foot (or the tendency towards bumble foot) can also be a genetic thing. Over weight or rats with lowered immunity are also susceptible to bumblefoot.
Now, if I have a rat that's a little heavier than he should be (ok...fat) I usually keep them on solid surfaces. If they're heavy, walking and sleeping on the wire can cause pressure sores, and those will turn to bumblefoot. (fat rats have a host of problems, and it's best if you can avoid letting them get fat...but it happens :-) I also keep my elderly rats on solid shelving.


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4. What does dumbo and rex mean?

Dumbo refers to the ears. A dumbo rat has ears that are set lower and rounder than the normal top eared rats. This does NOT change anything else about the rat. Rex refers to the coat. A rex's fur is curly. More accurately, a rexes hair is wavey, fuzzy or poofy. :-) Here's a page with picture examples on it.
You can see examples of other colors and markings here: http://www.afrma.org/fancyrm.htm

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5. My rat is sneezing, what should I do?

All pet rats carry mycoplasma. This is the bane of all rat fanciers. Hopefully, your rat's immune system will be strong enough to fight it. However, certain factors in your rats life can significantly lower the immune system and allow the myco to take hold. When this happens you'll notice sneezing, perhaps some red discharge around the nose. This is poryphin, not blood. It's the normal color of rat tears and nasal discharge.
If the sneezing is light and dry: (occasional sneezes are normal...we're talking about continual sneezes)

IMPORTANT: WE'RE TALKING ABOUT DRY SNEEZES. IF THE SNEEZES ARE WET AND THERE IS A LOT OF THE RED STAINING AROUND THEIR NOSE AND/OR EYES, OR IF YOU HEAR CONGESTION IN THE CHEST, IT'S IMPORTANT TO GO AHEAD AND GET THEM TO A VET FOR SOME ANTIBIOTICS. THEY CAN GO DOWNHILL SO VERY FAST.

  • You can use children's Benedryl. Read the label and make sure it doesn't contain Tylenol. You will give .05 cc (about 3-4 drops) to an adult rat twice a day.
  • Liquid Echinacea and Goldenseal. (available at health food stores like GNC) It has to be liquid form.
    2 drops twice a day for 2 weeks. Or you can put 2 drops per 2 oz of water in the water bottle. (in the water to prevent...by mouth if there are symptoms) If you have 2 rats and one is sneezing and one isn't. I treat the sneezer with meds and put the echinacea in the water to help boost the immune system of both rats.

Here is a list of factors that can lower your rats immune system:

1. poor diet.
2. Ammonia and dust in the cage. Some rats are more sensitive than others, so watch them. If you can smell it, it's time to clean! They're right in it.
3. Pine or cedar bedding, but you know that already. :-)
4. Air in the room is too dry. Try a humidifier like you use for kids.
5. Extreme temperature changes in the room. Going back and forth from cold/hot, cold/hot will make them sick (it'll make you congested too :-)
6. Stress. Travel, strangers, changes in routine (big changes) Introduction to new rats, boredom, etc
7. Mold. Mold in your a/c ducts, mold in the water bottles (sterilize them in the dish washer every other week), beddings such as corncob and other natural materials can mold underneath when they get wet, ..etc etc

That's all I can think of at the moment :-) I'm sure there are others. Never hesitate to contact me if you have questions.

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6. I think my rats are fighting. They're leaving sores on each other.
Before we go into the issue of fighting. If the sores are around the face and neck, see the answer to the next question concerning mites. 99% of the time, when someone asks me this question. It's mites. It's very easy to bring them into your home thru bedding and food you purchase from a store. And it's normal for them to be testy and fuss with each other more when they're suffering from mites.

If the wounds are more on the rump and tend to be slashes or cuts instead of tiny puncture wounds, then you might have a true aggression problem. If they've lived happily up until now and one rat seems to be the aggressor, it might be hormonal changes in your boy. It tends to hit around 5-6 months of age. Neutering is a big help here.

If the rats are new to each other, it's important to introduce them properly. Here are some links about that, until I can write up my own.
http://www.ratfanclub.org/newrat.html
http://www.dapper.com.au/articles.htm#intro

7. My rats have mites. What should I do?

The best treatment for mites is simply Ivermectin 1.87%. It's sold as horsewormer and comes in a giant syringe.
You will give an adult a dollop the size of an uncooked grain of rice. Dose them once a week for three weeks.
Clean the cages very well, including the surrounding area (every week). Wash all cage accessories very well in hot soapy water.
Anything made of a material that can't be washed thuroughly needs to be thrown out (cardboard, grass huts, etc)
You should remove untreated wood houses and such until your problem is over. Wash them well and leave them outside in the
sun.
If you have questions or want help with the dosing, email me at marie@warmfuzziesrattery.com.

8. Do I need to bathe my rats? What is the best way to do this?

If it's just a little freshening up that they need, you can use a damp cloth or a baby wipe. They also make special bath wipes for kittens and ferrets. You can use those.
 

As far as bathing them on a regular basis like you would your dog, that isn't necessary. They constantly groom themselves and stay fairly clean (if they're cage is clean) But, sometimes the little stinkers get into something and it becomes necessary to give them a helping hand.

Note: If your rat has recurrent respiratory problems or is extremely stressed by the bath, it's best to use the wipes.

First, have everything on hand that you'll need. A sink of warm water (Test it with your elbow like you would for a baby), shampoo (baby shampoo, kitten shampoo, or for your adult males, you can use Dawn dishwashing liquid..it works great on the buck grease. Just be sure to rinse it very well.) and two towels. You might want to wear long sleeves and wrap a towel around your neck (trust me lol) Some rats don't mind and some of them will think you're trying to kill them.
 
Dunk the rat's body in the water and get him wet. Of course, you don't want to put his head under water. Take him out and put him on the towel and soap him up. Again, don't do his head. He's probably squeaking and carrying on pretty good. Just talk to him and assure him he'll be fine. He won't believe you, but do it anyway :-) Several times, I've soaped up my little guy while he clings to my chest...whatever works :-)
Now, dunk him back in the water and rinse him as well as you can. Pull the plug and now you'll need to run some warm water from the tap. Don't turn it on too hard. This part usually scares them. But you'll need to rinse them in the running water to make sure you get all the soap off.  Wrap them in a towel and dry them as good as you can. He's probably be pretty pissed at this point. But if you think he'll let you, you can fluff dry him a little with the cool setting on the hair dryer. But unless it's drafty in your house, I usually just let them air dry. He'll go off in a corner and groom himself and give you dirty looks. Sometimes, I'll have a load of towels waiting to go in the wash. I throw the towels in the bathtub and let the freshly washed rats burrow in them while they dry and pout. That works great.
 
A favorite yummy treat right now would really speed up the forgiveness process :-)

 

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Warm Fuzzies Rattery is Located in Mineral Wells, TX (DFW)
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